It SEEMS to me at this point, it would be relatively easy to just finish it up with the welder. There will be a recessed goose neck hitch over the rear axle. The whole thing will sit on 2x2 box to mount to the frame. The frame, will be 2x2 box tubing for the perimeter, and 2in C channel for the cross members. The spare(s) will be mounted up in the bed for the most part. It IS going to involve tube work, that much is solid. Also, what about adding tie downs? How would I accomplish that? just lag bolt the eye to the deck? I need to be able to weld onto my bed, at least the perimeter, which, with a steel perimeter, I can work with that.Įither way, to be able to do what I want, I have to custom make it. BUT, it would make replacing the planks that much more difficult. I imagine I would find a way to build a relief in with the wood. SO, I need to be able to work in a relief. I cant do that with wood, as I will have the tires hitting the underside of the deck. I want to keep the deck as low as possible. By prying on the tail end of the board it bowed it up in the middle so that the back edge would move forward enough to pop into the groove.BUT, I have run into other issues than just wood vs steel. ![]() Trying to bend the angle iron that holds the boards in wasn't going to happen so I think the three of us just muscled it in with a long pry bar. ![]() It's been a long time and I recall that it wasn't easy. I plan on going side to side until I get to the middle gap, that board will be painted another color so I can eyeball it as the center when pulling up a car ,Īlso plan to put left and right strips at VW width to help aiming it when loading VWs.which is 90% of what I do ! "and bend in the new." how would you do that ? I pulled up the metal edge on my last trailer to get the plank end in ! I seem to recall that it worked out best by putting the middlest plank in last, but it's been a while. The easy button is just to count and measure what you have, use the trailer to go pick up that many of those types of pressure-treated planks, cut out the old, and bend in the new. We re-decked the trailer a pretty long time ago. There's been as much as about two or three inches of total gap across the width to about a total of 1/2", if that. I've noticed that the spacing between the boards varies greatly depending on weather conditions. I seem to recall that it worked out best by putting the middlest plank in last, but it's been a while.ĮDIT: Yeah, by a little bit of gap, I mean maybe a couple sheets of paper worth. Absolutely leave a little bit of spacing between the planks, but that's more for expansion and contraction than water drainage. At one time, with the original deck, we either painted it black or it came pre-painted black and that was a bit of a mistake - painted wood is super slippy when it gets wet and oil-covered. Pressure treated is stuffed with arsenic, I believe, which makes the wood not very tasty to the decomposing class of inviscritters out there so that's what we used. It's never been sealed or anything and it's just now starting to show some very early signs of deterioration. Maybe 10 years? So that we didn't have to rip anything to fit, we just went with the same 2圆 that we were replacing. ![]()
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